Definition:
There is nothing called “Mega-Macro”, but I have coined this term to describe a situation where we photograph subjects at a ratio of more than 1:1! Normal macro is when we shoot at magnification ratio of 1:1 magnification ratio, that is the 1 cm of the subject is produced on the sensor as 1cm. In “Mega-macro” we record a subject of 1cm as more than 1cm on the sensor. What “Mega-Macro” does is it allows a Photo artist to capture a world that is not seen with the naked eye and it acts a super study material for scientists and entomologists.
Tools and techniques:
There are several ways you can achieve this some of them are given below:-
Use close-up filters on normal macro lens:
This is the easiest method and not that expensive, you can buy and use filters on 1:1 macro lens. This will let u go closer and thus obtain higher magnification. The results will not be as impressive but this is definitely cheaper than buying a lens. This option also reduces number of equipment needed to be carried.
Use Extension tubes or Bellows
This involves loading the lens on a below or using extension tube. This reduces the amount of light available as the length increases. This is a less preferred method but if you can control lighting you can try this!
Lens reversal:
This is done by reversing, preferably, a wide angle lens in front of a longer lens ( Murali mentioned that Mark Polanski uses this technique !!!), this method can yield very high magnification ( Sometimes 20:1 ). Here the results can be better than the close-up filters, but here there can be problems of vignetting and you will have to fore go AF ( Who cares I always override AF while shooting macro ;-) ).
I’ve seen Anne ( Nagraj doing this )
Usage of a Super Macro Lens :
This is the best easiest thing to do! And you get best results! Find a super macro lens that provides more than 1:1 ratio.
Example: Canon MP-E 65 mm f/2.8. This lens lets you take up to 5:1 macros but it costs a fortune.
I’m not sure whether Nikon / Pentax have such lenses. If somebody knows please update me ;-)
Some Tips
Lighting: Reduction in light dues to these techniques also implies artificial lighting is very important in super macro photography. Use external flashes; it will be convenient to use a ring flash. If there is lighter to work with the image can be captured much better.
Stability: The high amounts of magnification mean that you will need very high stability; this means you will need a very steady tripod and a remote release will help. Another feature you will benefit from would be live view to increase stability.
DOF: Mega-Macro implies more importance to DOF; which forces the photographer to make a critical decision on his focusing point. And the reduction in light dues to these techniques also implies it is difficult to work working at higher f-stops. One method would be to take multiple images with varying areas in focus and combine them to get the desired image (Its called composting contact Murali for more details / training).
Still Subject: Any subject that does not move helps. Live insects keep moving so have patience; if you find a dead one use it (Please don’t kill it for photography sake as we cannot take life as we cannot give one).
POV: POV is important in Mega-Macros also. The angle the framing everything counts. When working at high magnification it can be a very precise maneuver that sets it right or makes it all wrong, using of geared head helps to precisely move the setting.
you can see some of the Mega_marco's of M. Plonsky here http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/
To be cont..............
Regards,
Goutham R
More to come - Goutham R
Friday, May 29, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
Macro photography- I ( The Equipment)
I have always been surrounded by photographers in my family and interest in photography was natural. Having said that about 4 years back I was hunting for a used macro lens and bought a used Sigma 180mm from a friend, that lens which is my prized possession even today changed the way I shoot macro pictures and also made me to look at things differently. This series of compilation is a brief record of what I have learnt with respect to macro photography and is an effort to record those thoughts and experiences.
Macro photography is photography of subjects that are very “small”. The primary goal is to show the details in the subject as sharp as possible and then add other parameters like lighting, composition to make viewing the picture a pleasurable experience.
I will cover few things about the equipment, In this blog.
To do macro photography, you need the following:
1. Bellows or extension rings that fit your particular camera and lens mount or filters(close up lenses) or reversal ring or even better a macro lens.
2. Sturdy tripod
3. Cable Release / Remote
4. Optional flash / Reflector.
5. Lots of patience.
6. Eye for the subject.
The bellows / extension rings(tubes) effectively lengthen the focal length behind the lens (the effective focal length) while the distance of the lens to the object is drastically reduced. Even though this is effective it can introduce some distortions at the edges so using a small aperture helps here to reduce these distortions.
Reversing lens is another technique and it was one of the techniques that I have tried during my initiation days. This is the cheapest alternative but since you are using the lens in a manner that it wasn't designed for, you can expect bad lens errors to show up! And off course some of today’s cameras will not work with this technique.
Close-up lenses are simply magnifying glasses that can be screwed onto the front of a lens to increase object size. These type lenses shorten the minimum focus distance for the lens in use.
Tripod and cable release/ remote are optional, but I suggest using this because you will be photographing small objects at some magnification, any small vibrations of the camera will most certainly blur the exposure.
Flash / reflectors can be used depending on the lighting condition to highlight the details in the shadows and if used effectively will make the picture stand out.
to be continued....
Goutham R
Macro photography is photography of subjects that are very “small”. The primary goal is to show the details in the subject as sharp as possible and then add other parameters like lighting, composition to make viewing the picture a pleasurable experience.
I will cover few things about the equipment, In this blog.
To do macro photography, you need the following:
1. Bellows or extension rings that fit your particular camera and lens mount or filters(close up lenses) or reversal ring or even better a macro lens.
2. Sturdy tripod
3. Cable Release / Remote
4. Optional flash / Reflector.
5. Lots of patience.
6. Eye for the subject.
The bellows / extension rings(tubes) effectively lengthen the focal length behind the lens (the effective focal length) while the distance of the lens to the object is drastically reduced. Even though this is effective it can introduce some distortions at the edges so using a small aperture helps here to reduce these distortions.
Reversing lens is another technique and it was one of the techniques that I have tried during my initiation days. This is the cheapest alternative but since you are using the lens in a manner that it wasn't designed for, you can expect bad lens errors to show up! And off course some of today’s cameras will not work with this technique.
Close-up lenses are simply magnifying glasses that can be screwed onto the front of a lens to increase object size. These type lenses shorten the minimum focus distance for the lens in use.
Tripod and cable release/ remote are optional, but I suggest using this because you will be photographing small objects at some magnification, any small vibrations of the camera will most certainly blur the exposure.
Flash / reflectors can be used depending on the lighting condition to highlight the details in the shadows and if used effectively will make the picture stand out.
to be continued....
Goutham R
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Two Snakes and Frog
As part of HSBC bird race; The "Gang" ( Myself, Arjun, Satish, Akshay and Chandrashekar) left to Hesarghatta lake early in the morning on 18 Jan 2009. After few drives on the lake bed and scores of bird recorded including the "Pale harrier ", We decided it was time to go back and were driving on the pathway; Suddenly we noticed a car with few INW guys parked next to the snake on the road and Satish who was driving the car stopped, what we saw was a "Rat snake" with its head buried in a hole.
We were not sure what made the snake so docile as it was not alarmed by the car!! ( which usually is the case). Before we could ascertain the reason, we saw another snake , a "Spectacled Cobra" move towards the Rat snake.
It raised its hood ......
Moved closer......
and attacked the rat snake.... may be the venom was injected
The stunned rat snake , came out of the hole, regurgitated its victim!!! and to our shock it was a "Bull Frog"
and vanished .. to die peacefully may be! The cobra also left the scene showing no interest in the "Bull Frog"
We stepped out of the car to examine the frog and to our surprise, it was alive with some bite marks.
and it rushed back to its hole !!!!!!
We continued our journey awestruck by the series of the events we witnessed.
--- Goutham R
We were not sure what made the snake so docile as it was not alarmed by the car!! ( which usually is the case). Before we could ascertain the reason, we saw another snake , a "Spectacled Cobra" move towards the Rat snake.
It raised its hood ......
Moved closer......
and attacked the rat snake.... may be the venom was injected
The stunned rat snake , came out of the hole, regurgitated its victim!!! and to our shock it was a "Bull Frog"
and vanished .. to die peacefully may be! The cobra also left the scene showing no interest in the "Bull Frog"
We stepped out of the car to examine the frog and to our surprise, it was alive with some bite marks.
and it rushed back to its hole !!!!!!
We continued our journey awestruck by the series of the events we witnessed.
--- Goutham R
Hide photography
“Hide photography” can provide many unique opportunities. And this compilation is just an effort to share the knowledge on “Hide photography”
Caution before we begin
Most of the time a hide is placed next to nest of a bird. However, you should always avoid disturbing your subject, even if this means you have to give up your dream and leave the birds alone. Disturbance could cause the birds to abandon the nest site or their newborn chicks. So better be prepared and always consult an expert before embarking this journey.
Why does one need a hide?
Most of the birds and animals are sensitive to the presence of human beings. Their natural sense of safety keeps them away from the human beings. There are many ways of tackling the problem:
a) Use long focal length lenses to keep distance. Most of the times this is not an option in a forest with thick foliage small areas of clearing. Also most of the birds are so small that it will be practically impossible to shoot them from a distance however telescopic the lens.
b) Use hide to get closer to the subject – A hide provides coverage to the photographer so that the bird is encouraged to come close to the photographer without feeling intimidated.
Where the hide should be built?
A hide is typically built near to the place frequented by the bird or animal you want to photograph. This provides an opportunity for the photographer to shoot many pictures thereby increasing the chances of shooting a good picture.
Before constructing the hide, one should also give consideration to position the hide in such a way that the photographer gets a good clean and possibly colorful background for the picture. It is also important to choose a location from which it should be possible to get a view of the bird and the chicks.
Here are some common locations suitable for building a hide:
a) Near a bird’s nest – When a bird is incubating its eggs and bringing up its chicks, it makes frequent return to the nest
b) Near water holes – Animals frequently visit water holes to clean themselves as well as to drink water. The chances of sighting animals are the highest near the water hole.
Steps for building a hide
A hide provides coverage to the photographer but allows camera lens to focus on the subject. Most of the times, one still needs to observe the behavior of the bird and places it chooses to perch before useful photographs can be taken.
The following are the raw materials required to build a hide.
1. Sticks/ Rods to construct frame (Can be a pre fabricated one or some jungle wood)
2. Camouflage cloth (Gunny/Jute bags will also do J )
3. Safety pins / clips
4. Your imagination J
5. Threads /Ropes
6. Broken twigs and leaves
7. finally do not forget the scissors used to cut the hide clothe as well as hole through the hide
8. optionally some clothe or other seating material on which the photographer sits while inside the hide
The method is not different from putting up a tent, only the scale is less. Use your imagination to build a sturdy frame with sticks / rods into a cubicle shape. Place the cloth over the frame and make sure you make a hole to pop up your lens and flash, while doing these use safety pins for stitching the cloth together. Secure your hide to the ground using ropes and stones. Since you may have to wait inside for a long time make sure that it is big enough for you to sit inside comfortably.
Placing a hide
Many birds will quickly “accept” the presence of a “Hide” and you will be able to begin shooting almost immediately, whereas other species will require time to accept the “Hide”.
One strategy is to set the “Hide” up in the area, and move it closer and closer [MS1] over a period of minutes/hours/days until it is at the desired shooting location. It is also a good idea to use a piece of pipe or tubing to simulate a lens poking out so your subject isn't startled by your camera lens when you really place it.
Try to place the “Hide” near natural cover such as bushes in order to blend in with the surroundings better/ or camouflage your hide with leaves/ branches. See the picture below:
This is “Hide” placed around bushes (Photograph: By Murali. S)
Leave some holes or meshed area in the hide so that the photographer can observe the surroundings and can observe when the bird approaches the perch/nest.
Getting in and out of the hide
Getting in and out of a “Hide” can be disruptive; therefore it is advantageous to plan on being in the “Hide” before your subject arrives. Alternatively, do not exit the “Hide” until there is a lull in activity. Some photographers like Satish advocate having a second person walk with you to the “Hide” and then leaving you behind, which gives the illusion that the intruder has left. The theory being that the birds can't count
Ethics
Know your bird: it is very important that photography of birds at the nest should be done only after you understand bird behavior. So, before approaching any nest site, study the adults and determine what their behavior is in an undisturbed condition. Keep a safe distance from the nest and use binoculars for close observation. This helps in getting to know things like their frequency of feeding, feed they bring, perches they sit on, sound they make when they approach the nest etc.
Know how/when/where to set up a hide: A hide should be used when there is a reasonable doubt that birds would continue their normal breeding behavior. Hides should not be erected at a nest site where the attention of the public or any predator is likely to be attracted. When placing a hide at a location with common public access, the hide should never be left unattended as this would focus too much attention on the nest and cause disturbances. But, repetitive removal of the hide could also lead to disturbance and might cause the birds to abandon their nest site. Therefore, I would suggest choosing nest sites at places where birds are very tolerant of human presence.
Every bird is an individual and their tolerance to a hide also varies. Use of a hide allows you to get close to animals but remember that there is a limit to how close you can get and that every single animal has his/her own tolerance zone ( gauging this only comes by experience! Satish will vouch for thisJ).
Get longest lens possible: Always use your longest lens; this helps you in maintaining your distance from the nest and to keep disturbance to a minimum.
Have Patience: A good nature photographer should have lots of patience. Hiding and waiting until birds come closer is much better for the birds, and it leads to better photographs of the bird’s natural behavior in an unthreatened state. Avoid movement in and out of the hide as much as possible, the bird might see you and feel threatened. Carry adequate food and water to accommodate long periods of wait.
Pre- compose: Pre-Compose the shot on the perch where the bird sits and always set up the lens at the eye level of the bird, this gives better POV.
Never change the habitat: Never change the surrounding habitat for the sake of lighting / background. Remember the bird has chosen to nest here because of the current habitat. Picture is not important than the security of the bird and its future generation.
Thanks a lot for reading this and please do let me know your thoughts on this compilation. – Goutham R
Caution before we begin
Most of the time a hide is placed next to nest of a bird. However, you should always avoid disturbing your subject, even if this means you have to give up your dream and leave the birds alone. Disturbance could cause the birds to abandon the nest site or their newborn chicks. So better be prepared and always consult an expert before embarking this journey.
Why does one need a hide?
Most of the birds and animals are sensitive to the presence of human beings. Their natural sense of safety keeps them away from the human beings. There are many ways of tackling the problem:
a) Use long focal length lenses to keep distance. Most of the times this is not an option in a forest with thick foliage small areas of clearing. Also most of the birds are so small that it will be practically impossible to shoot them from a distance however telescopic the lens.
b) Use hide to get closer to the subject – A hide provides coverage to the photographer so that the bird is encouraged to come close to the photographer without feeling intimidated.
Where the hide should be built?
A hide is typically built near to the place frequented by the bird or animal you want to photograph. This provides an opportunity for the photographer to shoot many pictures thereby increasing the chances of shooting a good picture.
Before constructing the hide, one should also give consideration to position the hide in such a way that the photographer gets a good clean and possibly colorful background for the picture. It is also important to choose a location from which it should be possible to get a view of the bird and the chicks.
Here are some common locations suitable for building a hide:
a) Near a bird’s nest – When a bird is incubating its eggs and bringing up its chicks, it makes frequent return to the nest
b) Near water holes – Animals frequently visit water holes to clean themselves as well as to drink water. The chances of sighting animals are the highest near the water hole.
Steps for building a hide
A hide provides coverage to the photographer but allows camera lens to focus on the subject. Most of the times, one still needs to observe the behavior of the bird and places it chooses to perch before useful photographs can be taken.
The following are the raw materials required to build a hide.
1. Sticks/ Rods to construct frame (Can be a pre fabricated one or some jungle wood)
2. Camouflage cloth (Gunny/Jute bags will also do J )
3. Safety pins / clips
4. Your imagination J
5. Threads /Ropes
6. Broken twigs and leaves
7. finally do not forget the scissors used to cut the hide clothe as well as hole through the hide
8. optionally some clothe or other seating material on which the photographer sits while inside the hide
The method is not different from putting up a tent, only the scale is less. Use your imagination to build a sturdy frame with sticks / rods into a cubicle shape. Place the cloth over the frame and make sure you make a hole to pop up your lens and flash, while doing these use safety pins for stitching the cloth together. Secure your hide to the ground using ropes and stones. Since you may have to wait inside for a long time make sure that it is big enough for you to sit inside comfortably.
Placing a hide
Many birds will quickly “accept” the presence of a “Hide” and you will be able to begin shooting almost immediately, whereas other species will require time to accept the “Hide”.
One strategy is to set the “Hide” up in the area, and move it closer and closer [MS1] over a period of minutes/hours/days until it is at the desired shooting location. It is also a good idea to use a piece of pipe or tubing to simulate a lens poking out so your subject isn't startled by your camera lens when you really place it.
Try to place the “Hide” near natural cover such as bushes in order to blend in with the surroundings better/ or camouflage your hide with leaves/ branches. See the picture below:
This is “Hide” placed around bushes (Photograph: By Murali. S)
Leave some holes or meshed area in the hide so that the photographer can observe the surroundings and can observe when the bird approaches the perch/nest.
Getting in and out of the hide
Getting in and out of a “Hide” can be disruptive; therefore it is advantageous to plan on being in the “Hide” before your subject arrives. Alternatively, do not exit the “Hide” until there is a lull in activity. Some photographers like Satish advocate having a second person walk with you to the “Hide” and then leaving you behind, which gives the illusion that the intruder has left. The theory being that the birds can't count
Ethics
Know your bird: it is very important that photography of birds at the nest should be done only after you understand bird behavior. So, before approaching any nest site, study the adults and determine what their behavior is in an undisturbed condition. Keep a safe distance from the nest and use binoculars for close observation. This helps in getting to know things like their frequency of feeding, feed they bring, perches they sit on, sound they make when they approach the nest etc.
Know how/when/where to set up a hide: A hide should be used when there is a reasonable doubt that birds would continue their normal breeding behavior. Hides should not be erected at a nest site where the attention of the public or any predator is likely to be attracted. When placing a hide at a location with common public access, the hide should never be left unattended as this would focus too much attention on the nest and cause disturbances. But, repetitive removal of the hide could also lead to disturbance and might cause the birds to abandon their nest site. Therefore, I would suggest choosing nest sites at places where birds are very tolerant of human presence.
Every bird is an individual and their tolerance to a hide also varies. Use of a hide allows you to get close to animals but remember that there is a limit to how close you can get and that every single animal has his/her own tolerance zone ( gauging this only comes by experience! Satish will vouch for thisJ).
Get longest lens possible: Always use your longest lens; this helps you in maintaining your distance from the nest and to keep disturbance to a minimum.
Have Patience: A good nature photographer should have lots of patience. Hiding and waiting until birds come closer is much better for the birds, and it leads to better photographs of the bird’s natural behavior in an unthreatened state. Avoid movement in and out of the hide as much as possible, the bird might see you and feel threatened. Carry adequate food and water to accommodate long periods of wait.
Pre- compose: Pre-Compose the shot on the perch where the bird sits and always set up the lens at the eye level of the bird, this gives better POV.
Never change the habitat: Never change the surrounding habitat for the sake of lighting / background. Remember the bird has chosen to nest here because of the current habitat. Picture is not important than the security of the bird and its future generation.
Thanks a lot for reading this and please do let me know your thoughts on this compilation. – Goutham R
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